Sampling: A Showcase of Sculptural Wearables
The Sampling department of our January/February 2008 issue features artwear with a sculptural aspect. Whether through the structure of the fabric or the overall form of the garment, these artists extend their clothing away from the body and into the sphere of art. Here we show additional works by our featured artists.
Fukuko Ando’s garments are the result of careful organic shaping with her hands. She molds them on a wooden mannequin in front of a mirror, sculpting the shape of the garment directly into the fabric. She sees her process as growth; as she describes it, each piece is like a plant that sprouts, grows, and eventually blooms.
LEFT: Blood, 2005; silk bias cord; bias cut strips. Photo: Michael Wayne Plant.
RIGHT: Garactic Sound, 2007; gold and metallic thread, Swarovski crystals; crocheted. Photo: Luigi Migani.
Ladene Clark starts each garment with a general concept in mind and then lets the materials develop each piece as she goes along. She uses knitting, crochet, or a combination of both to achieve her desired look.
LEFT: Baby Blues, 2006; cotton and wool blend with acrylic embellishments; crocheted.
RIGHT: Sweater Dress, 2006; polyester; knitted, crocheted.
Photos: Anna Donovan, www.annadonovan.com.
Elizabeth Delfs is a Perth, Australia–based artist whose work explores the relationship between garments and the built environment. Delfs sees her work posing questions of how we see ourselves as individuals wrapped in garments, which are then enveloped by buildings. Her “object garments” are viewed on the body through photographs or installed alone. She works with unconventional materials (such as foam, fly wire, and plastics) and traditional textile processes (such as dyeing, printing, smocking, and cutting), creating structures with transient visual qualities to be experienced from all angles.
LEFT: Red Yapha, 2006; open cell polyurethane foam; printed, disperse dyed, burned, smocked.
RIGHT: Yellow Yapha, 2006; open cell polyurethane foam; printed, disperse dyed, burned, smocked.
Photos: Christoff Hoppen.
Denise Moody-Tackley received her BFA in sculpture from Florida Atlantic University in 2004. She uses objects inherent to traditional women’s work to create long flowing gowns, which speak to the role of fashion in women’s lives. The results are puns and wry commentary about traditional women’s roles.
Internal Plumbing (with detail), 2006; copper scouring pads; sewn; 5' x 3' x 4'. Photos by the artist.
Veronika Persché, of Vienna, creates three-dimensional fabric structures with the help of a computer-driven knitting machine. Combining materials and altering the design, she can create a variety of different effects from the same starting point. Her fabrics range from the organic to high glamour and are very often green (she has long been obsessed with the color). Persché rarely creates her own garments; rather, she works closely with a variety of different clothing designers, a process she feels expands the horizons of all involved.
LEFT: tv-pullunder; 2006; merino, cotton; machine knitted. Photo: Jens Lindworsky.
RIGHT: White Rabbit (in cooperation with Smeilinener), 2006; merino, viscose, acrylic; machine knitted. Photo: Eghard Woeste.
Rebecca Wendlandt explores garment shapes that alter the female form without disrupting its elegance. Her wearable-art collection titled Insect Couture was developed while she was studying fashion and textile design at the University of California, Davis. She worked not to recreate any insect exactly, but rather use their colors, patterns, and textures to create garments that were unmistakably insectlike yet still sophisticated.
LEFT: Insect Couture Series: Lady Dragonfly, 2006; polyester, vinyl, thread, textile paint; net of thread and fabric constructed by machine stitching on dissolvable fabric, sponge painted, machine and hand sewn.
RIGHT: Insect Couture Series: Madame Beetle, 2006; polyester, silk, vinyl, buckram, textile paint, disperse dyes; digital printing, fabric distressing with a file, sponge painted, machine and hand sewn. Photos: Sean Penello.